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I Love German Wine and Food - a Mosel Qualitaetswein

October 26th, 2008
italian food
Levi Reiss asked:


If you are looking for fine German wine and food, consider the Mosel region of central western Germany on the border of Luxembourg. You may find a bargain, and I hope that you’ll have fun on this fact-filled wine education tour in which we review a local white Qualitaetswein (read inexpensive) Riesling.

The Mosel Valley is felt to be one of the most beautiful river valleys in the world. This region, previously called Mosel-Saar-Ruwer in honor of its three rivers, is famous for its Riesling wine. Some of the greatest Rieslings in Germany and in fact in the entire world come from the Mosel Valley. Experts can often identify Mosel Rieslings because of the slate in the local soil, which may impart a taste of flint. The slopes are among the steepest in the wine-producing world, and sometimes attain 70 degrees. The soil is so precious that every spring local workers lug pails of soil up these steep slopes, temporarily reversing the effect of the rains that wash the soil down every winter.

Mosel ranks number five among the thirteen German wine regions when it comes to both vineyard acreage and total wine production. Slightly over three quarters of the regional wine is classified as QbA and somewhat less than one quarter is higher quality QmP wine. Only one percent is table wine. More than half of Mosel wine is Riesling. The German hybrid white grape variety Mueller-Thurgau represents about 20% of the wine production. In third place is the historic Elbing that dates back to Roman times. Only about 2% of Mosel wine is red.

The Mosel Valley pretty well stretches from Koblenz which isn’t far from Germany’s former capital Bonn to the city of Trier sitting very close to the border with Luxemburg. These two fine cities are linked by the Mosel Weinstrasse (Mosel Wine Road) which is approximately 140 miles (224 kilometers) long on the eastern side of the river and somewhat less on the western side. Of course, you could take the autobahn to travel between Koblenz and Trier at breakneck speed. If you do, you’ll miss the interesting little towns and vineyards along the way.

Cochem lies about one third of the way from Koblenz to Trier. It’s a fine little Mosel River Valley town. This medieval town is long and narrow. You should take a boat trip as well as a walking tour. Outside the town gate is the Kaiser Wilhelm railway tunnel, which at 2.5 miles (4 kilometers) is the longest in all Germany. After about a fifteen minute walk you will reach the Reichsburg (Imperial Fortress), a thousand year old castle that overlooks Cochem. The castle hosts a medieval banquet which features period costumes and music on Fridays and Saturdays but you must reserve in advance. North of the city is a larger castle, the Burg Eltz a few miles inland from the Mosel.

Before reviewing the Mosel wine and imported cheeses that we were lucky enough to purchase at a local wine store and a local Italian food store, here are a few suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wines when touring this beautiful region. Start with Aalsuppe (Eel Soup). For your second course enjoy Rolladen (Beef rolls with Bacon and Pickles). As a dessert indulge yourself with Moselweintorte (Chocolate and Wine Cake).

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed Moselland Bernkasteler Kurfurstlay 2005 9.5% alcohol about $8.50

Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. Tasting Note: Pale straw yellow colour; citrus, mineral and dried apricot aromas and flavours; balanced with crisp acidity in the finish. Serving Suggestion: Serve chilled with pork, turkey or appetizers. Spicy asian dishes.

My first pairing was with a homemade pizza with lots of tomato sauce, vegetables, and cheese but no meat. This wine displayed refreshing acidity that worked well with the pizza sauce. It had good fruit and was surprisingly long.

The next meal included a barbecued chicken marinated in a commercial Mediterranean-style light sauce, red-skinned potatoes, and a somewhat spicy Turkish salad. The wine’s acidity cut the fat very well and yet complemented the tomato’s own acidity which largely defined the salad. This little and lightly alcoholic wine (9.5% when 13% plus seems to be the new norm) was quite assertive, especially with the potatoes. And yet it was somewhat flat with dessert, some orange fruit-juice candy.

The final meal was whole-wheat pasta in a sauce that started out with your basic commercial pasta sauce. I livened it up with a fried medley of garlic, red onions, red and green peppers, topped with anchovies and shredded (local) Asiago cheese. The wine was light and fruity and the combination was quite tasty. I was happy that this Riesling was low-alcohol (and inexpensive) so that I could drink quite a bit without any negative effects, including to my pocketbook.

The initial cheese pairing was with a mild Italian Pecorino Fruilano. The wine was sweet but didn’t impress me very much. Then I tried it with a nutty Dutch Edam cheese. Once again the wine was sweet but it was round and the combination went quite well.

Final verdict. Great bargain. The wine really goes well with simple food. I didn’t get a chance to try it with gourmet specialties but wouldn’t be surprised if it did as well as many wines including Rieslings at twice the price. If I weren’t saddled with so many wines to taste (talk about problems) I’d buy half a case and drink one every two months or so. Then I’d try one from the next vintage and hope to repeat the process.



Home And Family , ,

I Love French Wine and Food - a Touraine (loire Valley) White

August 24th, 2008
italian food
Levi Reiss asked:


If you are looking for fine French wine and food, why not consider the Loire Valley region of central France? You may find a bargain, and I hope that you’ll enjoy yourself on this fact-filled wine education tour in which we review a white Sauvignon Blanc-Chardonnay from Touraine in the eastern part of the region.

Among France’s eleven wine-growing regions the Loire Valley ranks third in total acreage devoted to vineyards. Given that France’s longest river the Loire runs for 620 miles (one thousand kilometers) across the country, in many ways it could be thought of as a series of regions. Here they are running from west to east: Nantais whose primary grape is the white Muscadet, Anjou-Saumur whose primary grapes are the white Chenin Blanc and the red Cabernet Franc, Touraine whose primary white grapes are Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc and whose primary red grape is Cabernet Franc, and Central Vineyards whose primary white grape is Sauvignon Blanc and whose primary red grape is Pinot Noir. We intend to review at least one wine from each of these four areas.

Chambord is home to the largest of the Loire castles, built as a hunting lodge for Francois I early in the Sixteenth Century. Many people feel that Leonardo da Vinci was responsible for the original design. The statistics of this French Renaissance hunting lodge are stupendous. There are 440 rooms but sadly a mere 365 chimneys. How would you feel to be assigned to a room without a chimney? The wall surrounding the property is 20 miles (32 kilometers) long enclosing a thirteen thousand acre (fifty two square kilometer) forest. The story has it that the Emperor wanted to divert the Loire River to create a moat but wiser heads prevailed and he had to be satisfied with diverting the Cosson River. Whenever he visited it took twelve thousand horses to bring all his stuff; they had to transport all the furniture and all the food except for game. It was estimated that over the years he actually spent a grand total of seven weeks there. During the French Revolution the castle floors were sold for timber and the castle doors were burnt to keep people warm during the sales. This castle is now government property.

Before we review the Loire wine and imported cheeses purchased at a local wine store and a local Italian food store, here are a few suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wines when touring this beautiful region. Start with Rillettes (Coarse Pork Pate). For your second course savor Lapin au Vouvray (Rabbit with Onions, Shallots, and Vouvray Wine). And as dessert indulge yourself with Tarte aux Pommes a la Confiture de Chinon (Apple Pie with Chinon Wine Jam).

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed Cheverny Blanc V. V. (Terra Vitis) 2005 12.5% alcohol about $15

I don’t know why but the usual marketing materials were unavailable. So I accessed the producer’s web site that offered following blurb - translated from the French by Google. Cheverny Blanc Old women Vines resulting from the marriage of Sauvignon and Chardonnay is manually collected with maximum maturity in order to release from the very constant flavours and a powerful gustatory length; to be useful between 7 and 8 degrees accompanied by fish out of sauce, scallop, snails as. Whaaat?

Didn’t anybody tell Google that V. V. (Vieilles Vignes) means old vines and not Old women Vines? Here is my rapid translation: Cheverny Blanc Old Vines (wine) comes from Sauvignon (Blanc) and Chardonnay (grapes) that were manually harvested at their full maturity to bring out their powerful aromas and long, powerful flavors. Serve between 7 and 8 degrees C (44 to 46 degrees F) with fish in sauce, scallops, or snails. Frankly, I would rather review wines than translate documents. And that’s what I am doing next.

My first meal was whole-wheat spaghetti with a homemade tuna, red onion, garlic, and Greek Olive sauce that started with a commercial tomato spaghetti sauce. I doused on a lot of grated Parmesan cheese. The wine was light, refreshingly acidic, and somewhat sweet. It was lemony with a taste of honey. When I finished the glass after the meal I had the feeling that the wine improved.

The next meal consisted of a commercially prepared barbecued chicken breast, rice, and an eggplant side. The Cheverny started off between weak and light but later picked up some strength. Interestingly enough it was quite present when paired with the tomato-based grilled eggplant.

The final pairing involved an omelet with local Provolone cheese and Greek Olives. The wine was somewhat assertive but short. As I had a little left I paired it with a high-quality chocolate-coated ice cream bar. The wine was nice and sweet and a fairly good match, at least initially.

The first cheese pairing was with a mild Italian Pecorino Friulano cheese. They made a good couple; the wine showed a lot fruit and pleasant acidity and was rather long. The second cheese pairing was with a more forceful Dutch Edam cheese. The results were fairly similar but the wine was definitely flatter.

Final verdict. This wine is best with rather bland food and as such is overpriced. At a much lower price point it would be worth buying again. I really expect more at this price.



Home And Family , ,

Crock Pot and Slow Cooking: Making the Most Out of Them

August 12th, 2008
cooking
Sharron Nixon asked:


e pressed for time, slow cooker or crock pot cooking offers the perfect solution in both flexibility and versatility.

When you put together the benefits of limited preparation, the use of one pot and the time saved by not having to prepare a meal on the spot, you know you have a winner. A meal can be cooked and served from the same pot, without having to juggle pots and pans and serving dishes.

Imagine coming home after a long hard day and smelling that your meal is already cooking, just waiting - a pure plummet in your stress levels.

If you don’t already own a slow cooker, there are a number of things you need to look at before deciding on the best one for you and your family.

The first consideration will be the size of the cooker. Small versions can be handy if you eat a lot of appetizers, dips, and salsas. Generally these are 16 oz. or quart size and are perfect for serving these types of foodstuffs. Obviously, they are the best size also if you are cooking for one. A large family would be best served with a 5 quart or maybe a 7 quart model.

The second thing to think about is the type of cooking you usually do, or plan to do with your slow cooker. If you are wanting to slow cook large or awkward cuts, like rack of lamb, you will definitely need the larger crock pot version.

There are a couple of options available as far as control of the slow cooking goes. If controlling or setting the temperature is your wish, there are crock pots that let you do this.

The other option is that you can just opt for a push button model that cooks at preset low or high temperature settings and sometimes a warmer setting. You need to be aware that if the “low” setting is too low and the lid is not on properly, the cooking temperature can drop below the safe level for cooking some foods.

Finally, you need to look at the heating elements. Crock pots can come with either bottom or side elements, or they can have both. Pots with side elements often require more liquid while slow cooking to avoid the risk of drying up over long cooking times.

If you are someone who really enjoys mixing things up and experimenting, slow cooking provides a wealth of possibilities. Where the crock pot really takes its place head and shoulders above any other cooking method is for slow cooking leaner and cheaper cuts of meat. The moist, long, slow cooking provides very tender meats where the fat is either dissolved or very easy to remove.

There are a few things you need to remember with crock pot cooking. Some meals will require the ingredients to be added at different times. For example, a casserole may require the meat to be cooked for a few hours before you then add firm vegetables, with softer vegetables being added toward the end of cooking.

As a rule of thumb, you should add things like spices, herbs and seasonings at the beginning of the cooking cycle, and things like frozen vegetables and seafood toward the end. Since ingredients are generally thoroughly cooked over a long period of time, a lot of stirring is not recommended or the food may break apart or turn to mush.

The versatility of the crock pot even allows you to create breads and desserts, but this is one area where you must take particular care during preparation. This becomes even more important if you are leaving your creation unattended while it is cooking. An over beaten or whipped dessert can quite easily raise the lid off the crock pot and create an ugly mess. This is certainly something you would not want to come home to after a long day at work.

A crock pot can deliver meals as classic as pot roast and vegetables, as simple as a cream cheese layer dip, or as complex and spicy as paella. The crock pit is one kitchen appliance that can rightly be called the cook’s best friend, especially if you learn to use it to its full potential.



Home And Family , ,

The Great Redneck Cookout

May 18th, 2008
cajun food
Fred Morris asked:


rednecks love to do: eat. It’s an old tradition, eating good filling meals with friends and a liberal dose of beer or other lubricants added. Unfortunately, a lot of rednecks have lost touch with the tradition of the pig roast and the fish fry, a great excuse to cook (destructively, as fire is often involved and sometimes not in a good way) some really good food and shoot the bull with your friends.

Both these great redneck traditions require one thing above all: a reasonably safe place to do the cooking and the gathering, preferably not close to anything flammable you treasure like your house. And to do it right, you’ll need space for two different fires: a bonfire that everyone can sit around and use to dispose of their trash, and a cooking fire off to the side. This means the best place to set up is generally in a woods clearing, and you don’t want to do it during a dry season.

Inviting people is the easiest part. Call a few friends and tell them to bring a few friends who can also bring a few friends - preferably female friends. It should be a BYOB affair, as you don’t want to pay for all that beer and you also don’t want the people who show up just for the free booze.

Set your bonfire and cookfire up the night before. If there are some good-size logs in the vicinity, pull them up; people will come and sit on them. Scout around to get an idea of parking issues, and if you’re not familiar with the area do a quick check for things like snakes and other pesky critters that could interfere with your redneck party.

If you’re doing a pig roast, you need to either butcher and clean a pig yourself or get someone to do it for you. Because the modern redneck tends to be a little more squeamish than his forefathers, you’ll probably want to do the latter. Make sure there’s some way to rig a suspension right next to (not over) the fire so you can roast the pig. Tradition dictates that you wrap the carcass in barb wire and set it up between two trees very close to the fire, and you need to be sure someone can turn the roast with a stick so it cooks fairly evenly. It will roast for hours. For safety’s sake, get a meat thermometer and make sure it gets to 185 degrees all over. Local barbecue sauce is optional.

There are plenty of options besides the barb-wire technique. A Cajun microwave is an in-ground metal oven; you put the pig in with any seasonings, bury the box up to the lip, put the lid on, and build a fire on top. A lot of people are using injections too, where they take whiskey or marinades and inject them into the meatiest parts of the roast every couple of hours. And then there are the optional side dishes.

Fish fries are, surprisingly, easier and start out more fun. Catch a mess of fish, and clean and chill them. You’ll need a big cooler to keep them in while you’re preparing them. Your cooking tools in this case are a turkey deep frier (available in most outdoor stores and nearly everywhere at Thanksgiving), about 20 gallons of peanut oil, and enough of a ½ corn meal/ ½ flour / salt and pepper breading mix to cover all your fish. Rinse the fish, dip them in the breading, and drop them into hot oil to cook. They’re done when they float to the top, and you can drain them redneck style by laying them out on a sturdy screen. Bring along plenty of buns and tartar sauce.

Trade off cooking duties with friends, and spend the day hanging out, listening to country music, chatting with your friends, and eating some of your tasty concoctions. Ideally, everyone should be able to park where bumpers and tailgates make handy seats, and you definitely want to encourage the talented rednecks in your group to bring along guitars to sing some good country music. The only other thing you’re likely to need: plenty of ice for chilling the beer that will show up.



Home And Family , ,

Italian Cuisine

May 12th, 2008
italian food
Denny Phillips asked:


Italian cuisine is as varied as the regions of Italy. Although Italy was officially unified in 1861, the food reflects the cultural variety of the country’s regions with culinary influences from Greece, Roman, Gallic, Germany, Turkish, Hebrew, Slavic, Arab, Chinese and other civilizations. In this sense, there really is no one Italian cuisine because each area boasts of its own specialties. Not only is the food of Italy highly regionalized, but a high priority is also placed on the use of fresh available produce.

Although traditional Italian dishes vary by region, they also do not follow strictly to a North/South pattern either. The north tends to use more butter, creams, polenta, mascarpone, grana padano and Parmigiano cheeses, risotto, lasagna and fresh egg pasta, while the south is more tomato and olive oil based cooking, along with mozzarella, caciocavallo and peconrino cheeses, and dried pasta. Coastal and central regions often use tortellini, ravioli and prosciutto in their cooking. Even pizza varies across the country. In Rome the crusts are thin and cracker-like, while Neapolitan and Sicilian pizzas have a thicker crust.

For most Italians, pasta is the first course in a meal with the exception of the far north where risotto or polenta is the norm. Vegetables, grains and legumes play a regular part of many Italian diets with meat often not being a regular part of everyday meals, Olive oil is usually seen in its dark green state (from its first pressing) in the south, where in the north a more refined, golden oil is seen.

Basically, Italian cuisine consists of a combination of vegetables, grains, fruits, fish, cheeses and a some meats, with fowl and game usually seasoned or cooked with olive oil (with the exception of the far north). La cucina povera, the food of the poorer Italian people of the southern coastal area, has shaped a diet popular for centuries but now there is a resurgence of this “poor people’s food”, the Mediterranean diet, which is now being touted as the model around which we should restructure our eating habits.

Breakfast is considered a minor meal in Italy, often consisting of nothing more than a bread roll and milky coffee (café latte). Traditional lunches tend to be larger, have several courses and are eaten slowly. Italian children don’t go to school in the afternoon, and because of the heat, many small businesses close from midday until about 4pm which makes lunch the social meal of the day.

The traditional menu structure in Italy consists of basically eight courses, but the long traditional Italian menu is typically kept for special occasions such as weddings, with everyday fare including only the first and second courses, with the side dish being served with the second course. As an exception to this order, a unique course, Piatto unico, can replace the first or second course with, for example, pizza.

The traditional menu consists of:

1. ANTIPASTO – which are hot or cold appetizers, literally it means “before the pasta”; consists of a varied combination of colorful foods. The most popular ingredients are melon or tomatoes served with prosciutto cut into very thin slices. Lettuce, such as the slightly bitter endives or rocket, or other green leaves, such as the aniseed-tasting fennel, are typically used as a garnish, placed around the edges of the serving dish. Salami, mortadella, coppa and zampone, manufactured meat products, are common in antipasti. The artistry of the food is as important to Italians as the taste. For example the reddish colour of salami provides a good contrast to the green lettuce. Fish and other seafood may also be used in the antipasti course and, of course, olives and artichokes are also common servings, as are mushrooms (fungi) seasoned with salt, pepper and lemon juice.

2. PRIMO (first course) – which usually consists of a hot dish such as pasta, risotto, gnocchi, polenta or soup, with many vegetarian options. There are many types of pasta, each type usually named after its shape with common types including spirali (spirals), farfalle (butterflies; sometimes described as ‘bow-tie-shaped’). Penne (hollow tubes) and conchiglie (shells). Different shapes are supposed to be better with the different types of sauces. Spirals are two strips of pasta twirled around each other and are used with the heavier sauces, such as those containing minced meat and vegetables. Rigatoni is cylinders or tubes, with a wide diameter and grooves (or lines) on the outside. The grooves are supposed to hold the sauce onto the pasta, meaning that this pasta is good with runnier sauces. Then there is the group of pasta made up of long thin strands, which includes the most common type of pasta, spaghetti. Typically you eat this type of pasta by coiling its long thin strands around a fork. Other long thin pastas are tagliatelle, fettuccine and linguini, which are all varieties of flattened spaghetti. Extremely thin strands of pasta are called vermicelli (meaning ‘little worms’). Yet another group of pasta is made of flat sheets (lasagna) or tubes (cannelloni), which are either layered or stuffed with meat and cheese fillings. Some pastas have ‘pockets’ to hold the sauce inside them instead of outside like ravioli or tortellini, which are soft sheets of pasta rolled around meat or cheese. Italians cook pasta of all kinds, whether fresh or dried, in boiling water until al dente (’to the teeth’, meaning still a tiny bit hard in the centre. It is then served immediately in a bowl with sauce or cheese.

3. SECONDO (second course) – this is usually the main dish of fish or meat. Veal, pork and chicken are traditionally the most common and are often pan-fried or casseroled. Beef is used as steaks (bistecca), while lamb (agnello) is roasted on special occasions, such as Easter and Christmas. Fish and other seafood are often used as main courses.

4. CONTORNO (side dish) – this may be a salad or cooked vegetable. Salad is traditionally served with the main course. Common vegetables are beans (greens and pulses), potatoes (often sautéed), and carrots as well as salads.

5. FORMAGIIO AND FRUTTA (cheese and fruit) – this is the first dessert course and the fruit and cheese are usually served together. Grapes, peaches, apricots and citrus fruits are a major product of Italy’s agricultural industry and are common.

6. DOLCE (dessert) – the cakes and cookies course Italians produce many sweet desserts and ’sweet treats’, including Amaretti, almond-flavoured meringues, which Australians call macaroons, Panforte, a sweet semi-hard ’strong bread’ based on nuts and containing dried fruit (a classic Christmas treat from Siena), and. Pannettone, a very rich bread-cake (another Christmas treat).

7. CAFFÉ (coffee) – which is usually espresso coffee

8. DIGESTIVE (liqueurs) – which may be grappa, amaro, or Limon cello. The wine industry has been important to Italy for centuries and the most common drink associated with Italy is wine. Until recently, and even now in the countryside, most Italians would make their own red or white house wine after the grape harvest. This would be drunk at every lunch and dinner. Even children are given wine to drink, but it is usually watered down with mineral water. Before dinner many Italians drink an amaro (bitter) to stimulate the digestive system, while after dinner they may drink sweet wines, such as marsala (from Sicily). Children are also sometimes given Marsala, beaten with a raw egg and sugar into zabaglione, to strengthen them.

PIZZA

Modern pizza has evolved from pizzas made by peasants in Naples, Italy, but more than a few Mediterranean peoples can claim to have ‘invented’ the pizza. In ancient times many civilizations created dishes of flat bread with various herbs and toppings. As a staple for the poor, it was a matter of necessity that food could be eaten without utensils, and that the ‘plate’ it was served on could be eaten as well. They made a bread crust from flour, water and yeast, topped it with olive oil, herbs, cheeses, sometimes even leftovers, and baked the whole thing in a stone oven.

Given that most pizza connoisseurs today consider the tomato sauce to be the key ingredient, it may be surprising that pizza pre-dates the introduction of tomatoes to Europe. Tomatoes reached Italy by way of Spain in the early 1500s but were thought to be poisonous. It was several decades later that tomatoes topped a flatbread in the form of a pizza.

Italian cuisine is very popular in all its forms and is imitated all over the world. Look for a few Italian recipes on June’s Recipes page, and visit our Marketplace to find Italian cookbooks and herbs and spices to make your families Italian dishes more authentic.



Home And Family , ,

Gourmets Get Ready for Induction Cooking

March 20th, 2008
cooking
Emma Snow asked:


Get ready, a cooking revolution is at the kitchen door. What the cell phone did for the telecommunication industry, induction cooking is now doing for the food industry. While the technology has been around for decades, in recent years it has been greatly improved upon, already taking hold in Europe and Japan. There can be no doubt that magnetic induction promises to be the most attractive cooking option on the market. In this article we will discuss how induction cooking works, how it differs from electric and gas stovetops, and explain the advantages and disadvantages of the new technology.

Up until now, there have been two basic methods of cooking food. Both methods follow the same basic principles. In the chemical method, a combustible material—such as wood, coal, or gas—is burned to generate heat; while the electrical method accomplishes the same thing by running a current through a coil, or more recently, a halogen-filled bulb. (A third, oven-only option for generating heat needed for cooking is microwaving, which generates the heat within the food itself.) Magnetic induction is a completely different technology.

A crash course in basic physics explains how it works. When a conductor is placed in the presence of a changing magnetic field, electricity is produced in the conductor. The result is an electromagnet. In induction cooking, an electromagnet is placed under the cooking surface. When turned on, an alternating current runs through the electromagnet, producing a magnetic field. A large metal object on the surface will pick up the current and generate heat. Voila! Now we’re cooking!

The biggest difference between induction cooking and its counterparts is where the heat is generated. Gas and electric stovetops produce heat on a burner. The heat is then transferred, more or less efficiently, to a cooking vessel and its contents. In contrast, induction cook tops generate heat in the vessel itself, while the burner stays cool. Since there is no transfer of heat from burner to pan, there is virtually no wasted heat. Studies have shown that induction cooking may be up to 90% energy efficient, compared to electric and gas cooking, which are 47% and 40% energy efficient respectively. In addition to efficiency, induction cooking is the superior choice when it comes to safety issues. Because the cooking surface stays cool (i.e. room temperature) there are no more burned hands or hot pads and there is no open flame sending potentially dangerous fumes into the air. Best of all, with the heat focused in the right place, the kitchen–and the chef–stays cool and comfortable.

But the real luxury of induction cooking—the things that sets it apart as the Porsche of cook tops—is the precision and control it gives the chef. By varying the strength of the magnetic field, the heat generated in the pot responds instantly. This means water boils in half the amount of time it takes electric and gas stoves. Low temperatures work as well as high ones—meaning you can toss out your double boiler! One experiment showed chocolate chips melting at such a low temperature they held their shape until spread with a spoon. Induction warmers are great for caterers as well, since they hold low temperatures and keep food warm better than any of the alternatives.

Unfortunately there are a couple big disadvantages to induction stoves. For the pan to conduct energy it must be magnetic—that is, it must contain iron. Therefore, cast-iron and steel pots and pans are necessary. Test your cookware by passing a magnet across the pan. If the magnet sticks, the pan will work. Some cookware, made with layers of aluminum and copper for distribution, will still work beautifully on an induction cook top, as long as the surface of the pan is steel.

The second disadvantage is unavailability. For some reason, induction cooking has been slower to take off in America than it has across the Atlantic. Therefore, it’s still hard to find, and models are more expensive. (Prices start well above a thousand dollars.) However, as the market increases, look for prices to steadily fall. If you can’t wait, there are several websites where you can order an induction cook top and have it delivered to your home. Installation is relatively easy.

After using an induction cook top, it’s easy to imagine the day when we will look back on electric or gas ranges with the same astonishment and nostalgia as we do grandma’s old wood stove.



Home And Family , ,

I Love French Wine and Food - an Alsace Riesling

February 26th, 2008
italian food
Levi Reiss asked:


If you are looking for fine French wine and food, consider the Alsace region of northeastern France. You may find a bargain, and I hope that you’ll have fun on this fact-filled wine education tour in which we review a local white Riesling wine tasted with several meals and paired with imported cheeses.

Alsace ranks tenth out of the eleven French winemaking regions in terms of its acreage devoted vineyards. But don’t let the statistics mislead you; little Alsace is a major producer of quality French wine. Its wine growing area is barely 60 miles (100 kilometers) long, and at most 2.5 miles (4 kilometers) wide tucked between the Vosges Mountains to the west and the Rhine River and Germany to the east. But this relatively tiny area is famous for its distinctive wines. Alsatian wine bottles are also distinctive; tall and thin with labels that feature the grape variety, not the usual practice in France. Chaptalization (adding sugar to the fermenting grape mixture) is allowed for many wine categories.

About 95% of Alsace wine is white. The major white grape varieties are Gewurztraminer, Muscat, Pinot Gris, and Riesling, reviewed below. Its secondary white grape varieties include Pinot Blanc, Sylvaner, and Muscat. The major red grape variety is Pinot Noir, which we review in a companion article in this series.

The beautiful Vosges mountains are located in eastern France near the Rhine River and Black Forest of western Germany. They are largely composed of granite and red sandstone. Their highest point is the Grand Ballon (also known as Ballon de Guebwiller) whose elevation is about 4600 feet (slightly more than 1424 meters). The vineyards of its eastern slopes have an elevation of up to 1300 feet (400 meters).

The Vosges mountains are ideal for tourists. Attractions include beautiful forests, several castles in ruins, and health resorts. If you are so inclined you can hike their usually gentle slopes and are never far from vineyards and restaurants serving delicious foods and local wines. After all, you are on the Alsace Wine Route, at least for the eastern slopes. Don’t forget the winter skiing. The southern Vosges, near the village of Bussang, boasts a beautiful fountain exploiting a spring that originates in the Moselle River. I hope you don’t mind that this particular area is just over the border in Lorraine.

Before reviewing the Alsatian wine and imported cheeses that we were lucky enough to purchase at a local wine store and a local Italian food store, here are a few suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wines when touring this beautiful region. Start with Schniederspaetle (Onion Ravioli). For your second course savor Brochet d’I a la creme (Pike in White Wine and Cream Sauce). And for dessert indulge yourself with Strudel aux Pommes (Apple Strudel).

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed Hattstatty Hatschbourg Riesling 2003 12.5% alcohol about $21.00

Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. This wine won a Gold Medal at the 2006 Concours Riesling du Monde. Established in 1998, the Concours Riesling du Monde (Rieslings of the World) competition takes place every year in Strasbourg, Alsace. Rieslings from throughout the world are submitted to an international jury of oenologists and wine critics. This hugely respected competition illustrates the diversity and brilliance of fine Riesling from around the world. And now for the review.

My first meal consisted of chicken barbecued in a home made sweet and sour Thai sauce with Portabello mushrooms and red pepper. The wine was fruity, nice and complex. It was quite a good match and I knew that this would be a quality wine.

The next shot was a commercially barbecued chicken leg (not nearly as tasty as my own barbecued chicken) with its skin in a paprika sauce accompanied by Turkish salad, and Greek olives. I started by sipping the wine alone, as I was afraid that I might have lost the bottle because the wine sat in the fridge for quite some time. No problem. This Riesling wine was fine with an appely taste but in the positive sense. The food pairing made the wine even better. It was quite long and powerful and yet delicate. While I liked the Greek olives and I liked the wine, I did not enjoy the two together. The Riesling’s acidity became more intense when pair with a moderately spicy Turkish salad. I finished the glass with some overripe cherries. This time the wine went flat, especially with the sweet ones.

The final meal was an omelet with a local Provolone cheese and a side of Turkish salad. The wine was nice and crisp. I tasted a touch of lime. As dessert I had a high-quality chocolate-coated vanilla ice cream bar. The ice cream bar was fine but it did flatten the wine somewhat.

My first cheese was a nutty, fatty, and slightly sour Dutch Edam cheese. My Edam cheese was well beyond edible by humans, although the spores looked like they were having a real feast. Anyway, in the presence of this Dutch Edam the Riesling was round and fruity, with pleasant acidity. In the presence of an Italian Friulano cheese the wine became sour and flatter.

Final verdict. Great wine, I will buy it again and watch my pairings more closely. This wine should be served with the right gourmet meal.



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Southern Cooking - Spice Up your Dishes With This New Recipe

January 21st, 2008
cajun food
K. Miller asked:


Southern Cooking - Add Some Spice With This New Recipe

Being born and raised in the deep South, I do not know where my recently developed taste for spicy food came from. I do not remember much spicy food being served at the dinner table when I was growing up. Although life has taken me far from the South, my love for the Southern cuisine has never diminished. And, this new love for adding “spicy” to my Southern dishes has me a little pleasantly surprised.

I was unaware that my taste for spicy food or additives had blended into my daily diet of Southern dishes. But, recently I recognized that I was on to something. Maybe, the rest of the world has been eating like this forever, but it was new to me. And, as I searched the internet to see if anyone was suggesting adding spicy flavor to Southern recipes, I could not find any.

You may argue that cajun food has always been spicy. Some may consider that Southern food, since it originated in Louisiana. And, yes, I agree cajun food is spicy. However, to me Cajun food is a breed of it’s own. It’s not what I would call traditional Southern food.

I’m talking about green beans, fried okra, black eyed peas, cornbread and turnip greens. And, Southern fried chicken, hushpuppies and home made biscuits and gravy.

So, when I realized I was enjoying spicy additives with my favorite traditional Southern dishes , I had to step back and ask myself, “where did this come from?”

I have found that adding a small slice of jalapeno pepper to turnip greens and a touch of crushed red pepper to fried okra really enhances the flavor. And, a splash of hot sauce on “everything” Southern is delightful. Try dipping your chicken in a mild hot sauce before coating with flour for a great Southern fried chicken. Of course, some may call this simply “hot wings…but not the way I cook it. Hot wings are not cooked Southern style like I cook my fried chicken (free recipe on my website).

I have tried many of the store brand hot sauces, and they are pretty good, but most are too hot or too mild and lacking in flavor. And, I was satisfied until I recently ran across a home made hot sauce recipe that blows all the others out of the water. It is fantastic!

It’s called “Butt-Kicking” Spicy Lime Sauce (my name for it). And, I want to share the recipe with you. Here’s how to make your own.

Ingredients:

6 large jalapeno peppers (fresh is better, but you can use bottled)

6 garlic cloves

1 small onion

2 cups apple cider vinegar

1/4 cup chopped cilantro

2 teaspoons salt

juice of 2 limes

1 teaspoon black pepper

Remove the seeds and ribs from the peppers and cut into medium chunks. Roughly chop the onion and garlic and put all the chopped ingredients into a small saucepan. Pour in the vinegar and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer 10 minutes.

Roughly chop the cilantro and put into a blender with the salt, pepper and lime juice.

When the jalapeno mixture is cooked, allow to cool 10 minutes, then add to the blender.

Turn the blender on low for 10 seconds, then increase to highest setting and puree for 3 minutes.

If you want a pure liquid sauce, strain through a medium hole strainer, however, I prefer not to strain. I like the fine pulp in the sauce.

Pour into sterilized jars and refrigerate. The sauce will keep about a month under refrigeration. Makes about a pint.

Note: Sterilize jars by placing jars and lids in boiling water for 15 minutes.

This sauce is very unique tasting due to the cilantro and lime juice. I doubt you will find anything like it in your market. And, this is better because it’s fresh. And, you made it yourself.

I put a bottle of this sauce on the table for every meal, including breakfast (it’s great on an omelette). Actually, it’s good on everything. I haven’t tried ice cream yet, but …hummmm.



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Redneck Cooking - Beyond Deep Frying

December 20th, 2007
cajun food
Fred Morris asked:


ew up redneck, you know the deliciousness of Southern and country cooking. Breaded deep-fried chicken, fried potatoes, fried green tomatoes, pan-fried pork chops, bacon, gravy, biscuits, and fried catfish.

You’ve noticed a theme by now: most redneck cooking is all about the hot oil treatment. Deep fat frying. And whether you use sissy canola oil or the real Southern treasure, lard, it’s not a healthy way to eat. Fortunately, there are lots of traditional redneck foods you can put together that don’t involve bubbling fats.

Start with southern salads. Summer salad, which is primarily lightly-pickled cucumbers and onions, involves peeling and slicing up cukes and onions and immersing them for an hour in a 1:1 blend of white vinegar and water, with a half-cup of sugar and about a tablespoon of salt added. You can put other sliced watery veggies in as well if you like: peppers, small squash, and carrots are pretty good.

One specific region of the South has plenty of redneck pleasing dishes that do not involve deep frying: Louisiana. Cajun cooking, which involves primarily blending strong seasonings French style, is completely unique. Instead of deep-frying your chicken, get good cuts, dip them in egg and then bread crumbs with a generous amount of cajun seasoning. Add a little extra cayenne pepper if you like it hot, and then bake your chicken until it’s not pink on the inside. This goes great with your summer salad and some rice. And you can use the same breading technique for fish and pork chops.

Barbecue is a critical ingredient of redneck culture, but it’s usually greasy. You can’t do anything to de-grease ribs, unfortunately; the fat’s part of their deliciousness. You can, however, make pulled pork and beef much less fatty by slow-cooking it on low in a crock pot with a cup of water. Season with salt and pepper, and cook until you can pull strips of meat off easily with a fork. Drain, cut off any obvious fat, then shred with a fork and remove bones and any other fat you see. Put this back in the crock pot with enough water to cover it, and cook for about twenty minutes. Skim off the fat, drain, and add your barbecue sauce for a surprisingly low-fat barbecue treat. You can do the same with chicken, but look for boneless, skinless breasts and thighs so you start with the least fat to begin with.

You can’t do without bread for your barbecue, but don’t use buns or white bread. Instead, go for toasted or untoasted sourdough. It adds a nice zing to your sandwich, and it’s one of the breads recommended for the South Beach Diet because its acid content forces your body to digest it better.

Get all your vegetables from the fresh produce section, or even better from your own garden. Tomatoes, green beans, okra, turnip greens, all make for a great redneck meal. Frozen and canned versions are seasoned and heavily salted, though you may not taste it, and are not only less tasty but significantly less healthy.

Don’t let anyone tell you that being a redneck means you can’t eat healthy foods. There are always healthy alternatives to those lovely deep-fried Southern dishes, and we owe it to our culture to live longer and healthier. Eat smart, and outlast the granola crowd!



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I Love German Wine and Food - a Riesling From the Mosel

November 20th, 2007
italian food
Levi Reiss asked:


If you hankering for fine German wine and food, why not consider the Mosel region of central western Germany on the border of Luxembourg? While I can’t guarantee that you’ll find a bargain, I know you’ll have fun on this fact-filled wine education tour in which we review a local white Riesling tasted with several meals and paired with imported cheeses.

The Mosel Valley has long been considered one of the most beautiful river valleys in the world. This region, formerly known as Mosel-Saar-Ruwer in honor of its three rivers, is proud of its Riesling wine. Some of the greatest Rieslings in Germany and in fact in the entire world come from the Mosel Valley. Experts can often identify Mosel Rieslings because of the slate in the local soil, which may impart a taste of flint. Mosel vineyard slopes are among the steepest in the wine-producing world, sometimes attaining 70 degrees. The soil is so precious that every spring local workers lug pails of soil up these slopes. This arduous activity temporarily reverses the effect of the rains that wash the soil down every winter.

Mosel is fifth among the thirteen German wine regions with respect to both vineyard acreage and total wine production. Slightly more than three quarters of the wine produced here is QbA and somewhat less than one quarter is higher quality QmP wine. Only one percent is table wine. More than half of all Mosel wine is Riesling. The German hybrid Mueller-Thurgau represents about 20% of the wine production. In third place is the historic variety Elbing that dates back to Roman times and is the major grape variety in the neighboring country of Luxembourg. Only about 2% of Mosel wine is red.

Basically the Mosel Valley runs from Koblenz not far from Germany’s former capital Bonn to the city of Trier that sits very close to the border. These two cities are linked by the Mosel Weinstrasse (Mosel Wine Road) which is about 140 miles (224 kilometers) long on the eastern side of the river and somewhat less on the western side. Of course, you could take the autobahn to get between Koblenz and Trier at breakneck speed. If you do, you’ll miss the interesting little towns and vineyards along the way.

Bernkastel-Kues is a town of about eight thousand that sits astride the Mosel River with Bernkastel on the east bank and Kues on the west bank. Bernkastel is about seven hundred years old but the area itself was first inhabited thousands of years ago. Bernkastel’s medieval town square is lovely with numerous half-timbered houses, some of which were built in the Fifteenth Century. St. Michaelsbrunnen (St. Michael’s Fountain) is right on the square and other historic fountains are nearby. Make sure to see the ruins of Burgruine Landshut (Castle of Landshut) for an excellent view of the city and surrounding vineyards. The first weekend of September marks the annual Weinfest der Mittelmosel (Wine Festival of the Middle Moselle River Valley) that includes a festive procession and a great fireworks display.

Bernkastel is home to the Bernkasteler Doctor vineyard producing one of Germany’s most expensive wines. According to popular legend a Fourteenth Century Archbishop of Trier was too sick to be helped by traditional medicine. He tasted some of the local wine, recovered, and said, “The best doctor grows in this vineyard in Bernkastel.” Due to questionable changes in German wine laws wine bottles labeled Bernkasteler Doctor may now be made by thirteen producers instead of three as previously. Let the buyer beware.

Kues was home to the Fifteenth Century theologian and philosopher Nikolaus Casanus, founder of the St.-Nikolaus-Hospital that operates a wine estate and the Mosel-Weinmuseum (Mosel Wine Museum). The museum’s library is open for tours and its wine cellar is open for tastings. Several local winemakers hold Tage der offenen Weinkeller (Open wine cellar days) in which they present and sell their wine in their own wine cellars.

Before we review the Mosel wine and imported cheeses that we were lucky enough to purchase at a local wine store and a local Italian food store, here are some suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wines when touring this beautiful region. Start with Gaensestopfleher (Foie Gras). For your second course enjoy Entenbrust an Brombeerjus (Duck Breast in Blackberry Juice). And for dessert indulge yourself with Schokoladencreme (Chocolate Mousse).

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed St. Urbans-Hof Riesling Kabinett 2005 8.6% alcohol about $20.00

Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. The 2005 Piesporter Goldtroepfchen Riesling Kabinett - still manages to show true Kabinett delicacy on the palate, which Weis attributes in part to earlier harvest and frankly in part to this site’s compatibility with higher yields. Skin contact and minimal clarification in the cellar help compensate for any danger of dilution. (Lower-yielding parcels nowadays must result in Spaetlese or Auslese.) Pineapple, grapefruit, black currant, and Golden Delicious apple dominate the proceedings, suffused with an aura of smoky, crushed stone, and mouthwatering acidity. This is once again a ‘little’ Mosel archetype and a terrific value … And now for the review.

Before the meal I thought to taste this wine on its own. It was delicately acidic and palate cleansing with light bubbles. Then I started with sweet and sour purchased barbecued chicken wings. The wine was fine with light acidity. Now I was ready to begin, so to speak. My initial pairing involved a commercial barbecued chicken leg with the paprika-coated skin, potatoes roasted in chicken fat, and some disappointing pickle slices. The wine’s fruit intensified to meet the chicken’s fat. This Riesling was quite round when dealing with the melt-in-your-mouth potatoes.

The next meal was an omelet with a local Provolone cheese and Turkish salad. The wine was round, thick, and pleasantly sweet. The word feathery came to mind. It sort of floated especially after the Turkish salad. Then I savored a high-quality, chocolate-coated vanilla ice cream bar. The wine retained its acidity; it was almost a good match.

The final meal was more of a snack. I ate some packaged Texas corn fritters with generous dollops of 14% sour cream. The wine was bold, sweet, and pleasantly acidic but frankly wasted on such plebian fare. I did finish the bottle with home made barbecued chicken to which the wine did honor. Even though the barbecue sauce wasn’t sweet the combination was excellent.

The initial cheese pairing was with a Dutch Edam that was nutty, a bit fatty, and somewhat sour. The Riesling’s sweetness seemed to step up a notch and it displayed tingling acidity. It’s been a long time since I enjoyed a wine and cheese pairing this much. Then I went to a mild-tasting Italian Friulano. The wine was acidic with sugar in the background.

Final verdict. This Riesling is a winner. I wouldn’t hesitate to pair it with a top of the line German poultry dish, the kind that you pay big bucks for over there. At 8.9% this is one of the least alcoholic wines that I have tasted in a long, long time. And you know what, I didn’t miss it a bit.



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